I was in Morro Bay, California, a small, charming beach town on the coast. I parked in a large dirt parking lot next to Morro Rock, which used to be a volcano. It was on the water's edge, and was huge and beautiful. I sat with the dogs in the bus watching the surfers for a while before we set out to explore.
The beach was bustling with ground squirrels, which were adorable. I was used to squirrels in the woods and in trees, but not on beaches. They were fat little things, and many of them stretched out on their bellies basking in the sun.
As we walked on the beach, I collected sand dollars that were scattered about. Eventually I had to make myself stop grabbing them because my pockets were completely full.
As the sun set, I started to wonder where I would sleep. This town had an ordinance against sleeping in vehicles, so I had to find someplace discreet. That's when a guy who introduced himself as Sam pulled up in his RV. We sat there chatting for a bit, and he told me about a hidden parking lot he had found. Not having any other ideas, I followed him over to a hidden dirt lot tucked behind a museum. It was secluded and seemed like the perfect spot to hide and sleep. Not only did the police not knock and tell me to move, but I could also hear the sea lions all night, which I loved.
The next morning while I was walking the dogs along the ocean, I came upon about 20 sea otters floating on their backs in the slow, small waves. They were adorable. I had seen them in zoos, but never in the wild before this. Some of them slept in pairs, resting their heads on the others' stomachs. One had a little baby asleep on her chest. Nearby there were boats tied up, and each one had sea lions sleeping on the deck.
Sam asked if I’d like to go get breakfast, so we went to a nearby diner. It was a good way to start the day. Afterwards I drove over and parked back at the beach to walk the dogs. Sophie loved the ground squirrels, yanking me around trying to catch every one.
As I was walking I started talking to some locals, who told me about a nearby dog beach. Morro Bay kept getting better and better. Sophie loved the beach and being able to play with other dogs, and she needed a good run. I also loved it because there were pretty rocks all over the beach for me to collect. Maggie enjoyed it too, but mostly because it gave her a sunny place to nap.
We spent most of the day savoring the beach, and spent the night in the museum parking lot again. The next morning I woke up to the knock of the police telling me I couldn’t park there. I had known it was only a matter of time, and figured it was time to leave Morro Bay anyway. I stopped at the dog beach for a little while again before heading out.
I wanted to continue up Highway 1, but had reached a section of the highway that was closed near Big Sur, due to landslides from bad weather, and would have to go around. The drive added a few extra hours, but it brought me past a secluded free campground out in the woods called Williams Hill Campground. I had to climb a steep dirt road to get there, but that brought us way high up, and the view was gorgeous.
No one else was around, and I spent a few days there. There were a few walking trails around, which the dogs and I enjoyed, and I spent a lot of time painting and reading. It was nice to be hidden in the woods, away from the busy crowds.
Eventually we trucked on to Monterey, another beach town. The sand at this beach sparkled with gold flecks. It made the water shimmer as the waves rolled in and out.
The beach was mostly sandy, but there were some rocks here and there. The strange thing was that all the rocks were full of holes all the way through. Some had multiple holes, and of course I had to collect some.
I wanted Thomas to be able to enjoy the beach as well, and I ended up leaving the dogs in the bus for a bit and carrying Thomas to the sand. He sat next to me watching the waves and birds. He didn’t want to get up and explore, so we just sat there together awhile, taking it all in.
The town itself was cute too. There was a little pond with a walking trail around it. It was full of geese and flowers, and also had the swan boats, which I really need to go on someday.
One of the most unique parts of Monterey I came across was the graveyard. It wasn’t like any I had seen before. This one was mostly buildings where each wall held multiple caskets from floor to ceiling. There was a plaque in front of each listing the names and dates of the deceased, with a vase to hold flowers.
They had indoor and outdoor sections, and one of them was even two stories high with stairs to the top section. It was cool to see, but if I had a choice I definitely wouldn’t want to be buried like that.
I decided to take a day trip to Big Sur. I would have to back-track, but concluded I couldn’t come all this way and not see it. I drove down the long, winding road along cliffs with the ocean far below.
My first stop was at a beautiful, historic bridge. It stretched between two cliffs, making for a grand view.
I stopped at a little place that had hiking trails. I took Maggie and Sophie, and we hiked amongst the redwood trees. The trees seemed endless as they reached for the sky. All the while, bright blue and black birds darted through the trees.
Along all of Highway 1, there were random pull-offs at the tops of cliffs overlooking the ocean. I had the perfect view sitting on the top of my bus, where I could see everything.
After driving a bit more I came to another path, which had “no dogs allowed” signs, but I turned a blind eye, as I had done with other trails. This trail went down the steep cliff and into the woods, then veered off in two directions. The first trail led across a wooden bridge and then through a tunnel that was built under the cliff. The other side opened up to the beautiful, teal colored ocean with its swirling water. It was breathtaking.
We went back to check out the other path. This one wended through the woods alongside a river.
Eventually the woods opened up to a rock beach. The river ran along the edge, making a little waterfall as it led to the ocean. This place kept getting more amazing. I had always thought you needed to choose between the beach and the forest; I didn’t know you could have both, and I fell instantly in love with this place.
I sat with the dogs watching the intense ocean. I was in a little cove and every time the waves came smashing onto the rocky shore, it sent huge sprays of water flying in the air.
We hit the road again, pulling into another lot overlooking the ocean. I let Thomas out to explore a little at this stop since it was farther back from the road, and he wanted to see the excitement. I met a guy named Diego, who was traveling in a van. We chatted and he told me about a little waterfall down the road a bit, so I went to check it out. That trail also had a tunnel leading through a cliff. The waterfall wasn’t large, but off in the distance it looked stunning pouring off the cliff directly into the ocean.
I had to turn around and go back because with that stop, I had reached the part of Highway 1 where the road was closed. The sun was about to set, so I went back to the pull-off I was at previously, and Diego was still there. There was also a man playing a handpan drum, which are metal and make peaceful, chime music. We watched the sunset to the melody of the drum.
While Diego and I were talking, he brought up the place with the river running to the ocean, and we discovered it was both of our favorite spots. He wondered how it must look at night, so of course we had to go down there. We each parked along the road and made the walk in the dark. It was pitch black until we stepped onto the beach and were greeted by the stars and moon, which lit up the sky. With the intense crash of each wave, a layer of mist landed on us. We sat there for a while, taking in the night.
I wasn't sure where to sleep that night since all of Big Sur had signs along the road saying a fine of $1000 would be issued for car camping anywhere, which of course I could not afford. But it was late, I didn’t want to drive out, and I was hoping no one would care. Diego and I both ended up sleeping in our vehicles there, unbothered.
The next morning we hiked back to that same beach. He went for a swim but I was not about to get in the cold water, especially in the chilly morning air.
When we returned to our rigs, we continued driving until we came to a bookstore. The fence in front of the store was lined with polaroids of previous visitors.
Inside the fence was a walkway lined with unique garden art, a broken down piano, mermaid-bear statues, ladders, and swings.
The bookstore itself was a small wooden shack that had books outside hanging off of every wall. We each grabbed a book and sat on the deck reading as the sun shined down on us.
The next stop was a hiking trail that led through the woods to a waterfall. There was one section of the trail where we had to walk across a shallow river.
The main path was closed, but we hopped over their signs and went anyway. The reason for the closure was a tree had fallen onto a bridge, but we were still able to go over it. Once we got to the waterfall, Diego persuaded me to go under it. The icy water was a shock, but it felt amazing and I was grateful I had done it.
When we returned to our vehicles, Diego and I went our separate ways. He was ready to leave Big Sur, but I wanted to eat and then explore more. After a snack I continued on to another pull-off. I walked down a trail at the top of a cliff lined with pink flowers.
Eventually I came to stairs that led down to a magical world filled with calla lillies. They grew around a stream with a quaint bridge that led down a rocky path to a sandy beach. It was breathtaking. I was so glad I back-tracked to go to Big Sur; it’s one of my favorite places I’ve experienced.
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